A chemical compound that may soon play an important role in skin discoloration treatment has been developed by researchers from the Jagiellonian University. Their invention can effectively inhibit the natural process of melanin production by skin cells. The scientists claim that applying the newly discovered substance to hyperpigmented skin areas may effectively reduce the discoloration of skin.
The creation of the new chemical compound is a result of many years of efforts by the team led by Dr hab. Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak from the JU Medical College Faculty of Pharmacy. The studies concerned various types of compounds, including cinnamic acid derivatives and focused on their potential of supporting skin hyperpigmentation treatment. Cinnamic acid is a substance naturally present in some plants, including the popular spice to which it owes its name. The scientists managed to obtain one particular derivative of this acid which, as they proved, exhibits the desired properties, effectively inhibiting processes of melanin production by skin cells.
Controlling melanin synthesis key to reduce discoloration
Melanin is a natural pigment whose main role is the protection of the body against harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. It is produced by melanocytes, that is, special cells found in the deeper layer of epidermis. The process is catalysed, among other factors, by one special enzyme, known as tyrosinase.
‘The compound we have discovered effectively inhibits the activity of this enzyme, and that means that we have achieved the possibility of controlling the amount of melanin in those areas of skin to which it is directly applied. The idea of treatment based on our discovery is very simple: using the cosmetic containing the substance in the place of skin hyperpigmentation significantly reduces melanin production, which subsequently leads to the brightening of epidermis and reduction of the discoloration’, explains Dr Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak from the JU Medical College.
Advanced research process
So far, the scientists have conducted a number of successful tests required to introduce a new cosmetic product to the market. The in-vitro experiments carried out so far confirmed the safety of the selected compound as well as its high bioaccessibility.
‘In addition to the safety and activity of the cinnamic acid derivative, it is important that the substance easily passes through the epidermis and, consequently, can effectively work inside melanocytes, inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. Besides, unlike other substances hitherto used in skin hyperpigmentation treatment, the compound shows a high level of physicochemical stability, also in water solutions and emulsions’, adds Dr Justyna Popiół from the Faculty of Pharmacy of the JU Medical College.
So far, it has been proved that the new compound does not exhibit cytotoxic, mutagenic, or genotoxic activities. A model of reconstructed human epidermis was used in tests to verify its effectiveness and safety. Such a model is based on the epidermis obtained from human keratinocytes. Its morphological and physiological properties resemble those of a natural tissue. Tests on this tissue, grown specially for that purpose, effectively replace animal experimentation and are used by a number of cosmetics producers all over the world. The successful completion of such experiments precedes the final tests involving humans.
Market implementation prospects
The team from the JU Medical College has studied solutions of the compound as well as the specifically designed cosmetic formulation based on oil-in-water emulsion. The results have indicated high melanogenesis inhibition properties, lack of irritating effects, and optimal bioaccessibility.
‘Due to the fact that the compound successfully passes through the corneal layer of the epidermis, reaching the living layers of skin tissue, and its properties have been confirmed through subsequent analysis, the discovery must be considered very promising. Yet, before the product is allowed to enter the market, the final stage of research has to be completed, that is, the substance has to be tested on selected groups of people. For this stage, we are looking for a business partner interested in enhancing their offer of cosmetic products with this kind of compound. We would like to collaborate with such a partner based on an issued licence, whereas our research team is fully ready to provide relevant expertise to the external party responsible for the introduction of the compound to the market’, stresses Dr Gabriela Konopka-Cupiał, Director of the CITTRU Centre for Technology Transfer.’
The intellectual property rights related to the newly developed compound are protected both in Poland and abroad. The research was conducted as part of the project funded by the National Research and Development Centre within the framework of LIDER XI programme.
